YEBO BEACH HAUS OFFERS A MELTING POT OF SOUTH AFRICAN FLAVORS!
Buckhead’s landscape is replete with restaurants ranging from tony steakhouses and French brasseries to elegant sushi counters. It’s rare to find something unique added to the mix. Enter Yebo Beach Haus, an upscale eatery focused on South African fare.
Much like the food of the U.S., South African cuisine is marked by the other foodways that have touched it. It’s easy to see influences from the indigenous African, Indian, Malay, Dutch and British who have called its land home over the centuries. Those same influences are evident on Yebo’s menu.
Those who haven’t been to the East Andrews development since a bar of the same name was a weekend hotspot should be prepared to be charmed by the tucked-away eatery that features both indoor and alfresco seating. The dining room is dimly lit and cozy, while the outdoor courtyard feels like a secret garden, with overhead light streaming in during the day.
Full disclosure: I’ve been a fan of restaurateur Justin Anthony’s eateries since 10 Degrees South was a fixture on Roswell Road in the early 2000s. The original Yebo opened at Phipps Plaza in 2012 and moved to a historic house on West Paces Ferry before landing in its current locale in 2020.
I was excited to introduce others to this flavor safari and invited a college friend to lunch. We started with a colorful appetizer of roasted butternut squash and beets nested on housemade whipped ricotta cheese and topped with a drizzle of honey and a sprinkling of toasted pistachios. We opted to add a side of grilled sourdough bread to this sharable starter. While I normally eschew espresso martinis at night, I let myself indulge during this daytime visit. Rather than the standard shaken variety, Yebo bartenders dial up the interest by serving theirs frozen with a delightful secret ingredient: Amarula Cream Liqueur. Made from the fruit of the marula tree, it infuses citrusy and toffee flavors, adding depth to the cocktail.
A decadent smash-style Angus beef burger came to my friend with melted American cheese, lettuce, tangy pickles and a housemade “special” creamy sauce, all sandwiched between a light-as-air brioche bun. The salty-crisp fries were served alongside curry ketchup. Never one to turn down a double order of fries on the table, my steak frites order also added a petite and perfectly dressed mixed green salad to accompany the medium-rare hangar steak topped with whipped butter studded with fresh herbs. Even the side of crispy Brussels sprouts had a South African twist: Buttermilk flavored with peri-peri, a seasoning made from African bird’s eye chilies, gave the dish just enough of a kick to add interest without overwhelming heat.
During a second visit, another friend and I decided to go all out, sharing as much as our petite table for two would hold. Since the restaurant offers a raw bar menu (and because my guest doesn’t enjoy raw fish), we started with the shrimp tempura roll. The flash-fried crustaceans were tucked into sushi rice, wrapped in seaweed and drizzled with creamy peri-peri aioli. We couldn’t miss the bobotie crepes, one of my favorite menu items from my years of frequenting this restaurant. Still-steaming tender crepes are stuffed with a mixture of curried ground beef, diced apples and raisins, and served covered with creamy hollandaise. It’s just the right mix of sweet and savory, highlighting the influence of the Cape Malay community in South Africa who fused flavors from the Indonesian spice trade and traditional Dutch cooking. I’ve never introduced anyone to this dish and had them not love it as much as I do.
We chose two entrees to further represent the cornucopia of influences present in this fascinating country’s cuisine. Italian tagliatelle Bolognese got an exotic upgrade with a ragu made with ostrich and beef, plus wild mushrooms. On paper, eating ostrich might sound like an adventure, but really, it’s a smart addition: Its lean meat lends a tender texture and subtly gamey flavor. The halibut came out flaky and fragrant, with char-grilled broccolini and coconut rice. My only complaint: I wish there was a bit more of the red butter curry sauce to complement the South Asian flavors on the plate. A side dish of creamy curried cauliflower topped with crunchy toasted almonds was an ideal accompaniment.
A word to the wine lovers: Ask the on-staff sommelier for recommendations and be open to trying some signature South African varieties. The Cape winelands are productive and respected in the wine world, and the crisp Chenin Blanc, a white wine, and the deep red Pinotage are winners that deserve a taste.
The service at Yebo is consistently strong. During my lunch, our server was efficient but not memorable. However, our second server made us feel like we were chatting with a new best friend. While we were about to tap out he encouraged us to go for the bread pudding (“I crave it!” he told us). I’m so glad we heeded his sage advice. It arrived warm, flecked with white chocolate, drizzled with buttery bourbon-infused caramel and topped with vanilla ice cream. It was a sweet send-off that left us dreaming of a return visit.
Yebo Beach Haus
404.228.8024
yebobeachhaus.com
@yebobeachhaus
Prices: caviar: $96-$250; raw bar: $18-$165; garden: $14-$16; starters: $17-$36; salads: $13-$16; mains: $28-$95 sides: $9; desserts: $5-$15.
Recommended: Smash burger, steak frites, Brussels sprouts, bobotie crepes, ostrich and beef Bolognese, bread pudding.
Bottom line: This South African eatery showcases an approachable, thoughtfully composed menu with influences ranging from Dutch and indigenous African to Indian and Malay. With its intimate dining room and a patio that feels like a secret garden, it’s a smart spot for casual fine dining in Buckhead.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
