THAI FLAVORS BLOOM AT PINK LOTUS IN WEST MIDTOWN.
Glance around West Midtown’s Pink Lotus restaurant and you will see the eponymous color in varied shades: Fuchsia cushions and raspberry triangle pillows dot long benches around the main dining room, pale fresh blossoms sit atop tables, candy-hued paper lanterns hang from the ceiling, and a bright mural showcases the namesake flowers. Less expected are the numbers of people seated around the space who are wearing pink. Though there’s no dress code that requires or even suggests pink clothing, on my recent visits there seemed to be communal agreement that it’s fun to wear the titular hue. But if your wardrobe lacks pink, don’t let that stop you from visiting. Decor elements from floor tiles to framed fabrics underscore the fact that all colors and even gingham and plaid are welcome here.
With Pink Lotus, the 26 Hospitality Group team aims to spotlight lesser-known dishes of Thai cuisine. Presenting authentic regional specialties from across Thailand, the menu offers a range of dishes from homey classics to modern creations. Shareable appetizers and combination plates at lunch and dinner make it easy to sample multiple temptations in one visit.
As a greeting and awakening of the senses, once seated you’re given a towelette with essential oils to wipe hands and a delicate drink made of lemongrass and pandan, a spiky plant known as “Asian Vanilla,” to perk up the palate. Servers are eager to answer questions and recommend favorites among the array of menu options. From mild to super hot, spice levels can be customized to suit personal preferences. Many dishes can also add additional proteins including chicken, seafood, beef or tofu.
Cocktails merge savory and tropical elements in surprising ways. The som tom martini shakes gin with papaya salad and fresh lime for a striking sip that starts sour and builds to spice. The Roti Massaman cocktail skillfully mixes the namesake curry sauce with lime vodka, coconut, ginger and lime juice for a drink that hits a chorus of flavor notes as it skips across taste buds. The bar menu suggests that its lineup of medicinal-tasting, herb-infused spirits promote health and vitality, though there’s only solid proof that drinking a three-pour flight of them can satisfy flavor curiosity. For a light, food-friendly cocktail, try the lychee spritz with gin, lychee and lemon juices and splashes of aperitif and sparkling wines. Prefer wine straight up? Sparkling, white, pink and red blends and varietals from the U.S., France, Italy, Spain and South Africa are available by the glass and bottle. Beer options include Thailand’s crisp and refreshing Singha lager.
Whatever you order, you can expect colorful, artful plate presentations and bold flavors that hit just right. Start with the popular crispy kale and minced chicken appetizer that drizzles saucy poultry bits over fried greens at the table. Southern Thai charcoal chicken features two skewers of tender meat slathered with a tangy sauce. Golden crab rolls, a personal favorite, are solidly packed with chunks of seafood and accompanied by a sweet plum sauce. Fried calamari features toothsome rings of squid coated in a delicate, crispy batter and served with a tangy chili-lime dipping sauce. If you enjoy the complex flavor layers of Massaman curry but want to try a different entree, opt for the roti curry appetizer; a small bowl of the sweetly spicy sauce arrives with flatbread for dipping.
Traditional pad Thai, a stirfried rice noodle dish not to miss if you’re new to Thai cuisine, can be prepared to suit vegetarians or omnivores. However it’s ordered, here you can expect complex sweet, sour, salty and umami flavors in perfect balance. One bite of what the menu bills as “the best” short rib is proof enough the name isn’t hyperbole: Slow braised in a fivespice glaze, this fork-tender beef is such an ethereal joy to eat that you might find yourself fending off the forks of your dining companions hoping to swipe a bite. Savory and herbaceous with a garlicky tang, Chiang Mai fried rice is cooked in a wok with your choice of protein—most popularly, Sai Oua sausage—topped with a fried egg and a smoky green chili dip alongside. Basil chicken stir fries tender chicken with a kicky sauce featuring Thai basil, chilies and garlic; each bite drenches the tongue with savory, spicy and herbal notes.
Finish on a sweet treat with a slice of coconut cake. Its tender crumb and just-right coconut flavor satisfied my cravings.
According to Pink Lotus’ website, “In Thai tradition, the pink lotus is a sacred offering—presented to the goddess Lakshmi to invite blessings, abundance and peace.” Fittingly, a meal here can leave you feeling rewarded, satiated and content.
Pink Lotus
470.346.2609
pinklotusthai.com
@pinklotusthai
Prices: Bold bites, $13; soups, $17-$19; salads, $17-$19; shareables, $17-$23 or $55 for three; signature plates, $21-$55; noodles, $25-$31; plant forward, $21-$23; sides, $2-$12; desserts, $15; lunch sets, $30; crafted cocktails, $17- $27; wine, $16-$24/glass or $64-$96/bottle; beer, $7; non-alcoholic, $6-9.
Recommended: Golden crab rolls, fried calamari, basil chicken, roti curry, pad Thai, short rib and Chiang Mai fried rice.
Bottom line: This upscale Thai restaurant offers a welcoming vibe, attentive service, vibrant decor with pops of many shades of pink and skilled preparations of cocktails and foods that burst with bold yet well-balanced flavors.
PHOTOS: Madelynne Grace
