RAISE FORKS FOR THE CREATIVE FARE AT 5CHURCH BUCKHEAD!
A confession: Oysters are not my thing. My husband craves them, yet for some reason he refuses to order a starter of even six oysters without my promise to eat at least one. That has always been more than enough for me until I tried them at 5Church Buckhead. I had two. I could have eaten all six. I’d order them again without hesitation, a small miracle. Smothered in Thai chili herb compound butter, panko bread crumbs and parmesan cheese, these baked oysters boast a texture akin to pasta and a parade of earthy and spicy flavors. A delightful surprise, I thanked the server (who’d admitted to not typically liking oysters either) for talking me into trying them.
The same helpful server also improved my cocktail by bringing an extra splash of simple syrup that smelled like an orchard. The menu description of “Deception in the Garden” promises silver tequila with triple sec plus pear, lavender, lemon and pineapple. It arrived tasting like a regular margarita, not the fruity florally concoction I’d imagined. After stirring in a bit more syrup, the cocktail soared from ho-hum to yum.
5Church got its name from its original location at Fifth and Church Streets in Charlotte, North Carolina. Lunch, dinner, brunch and drink menus have Southern roots with global influences and change seasonally to showcase fresh ingredients from local purveyors.
The Buckhead location incorporates works by local Atlanta artists, including a framed tree of life, a deer sculpture featuring 5Church silverware and a ceiling hand-painted with lines from Sun Tzu’s The Art of War. The word “love” is displayed outside near the entrance and in multiple selfie-ready nooks inside. Lights hanging over the bar suggest angel wings. Lush greenery, sparkling glass and flowery white trees adorn the 21+ sunroom patio.
The overall feeling is edgy yet classy.
Menu items can be just as funky and upscale. Sushi tots are blocks of fried sushi rice topped with yellowfin tuna, Sriracha aioli, eel sauce, nori and wasabi tobiko. Each bite offers contrasts of crunchy/soft and sweet/spicy. The popular 5Church lamb burger tops meat with red onion marmalade, gorgonzola, arugula and a secret sauce. The combination marries earthy and tangy notes.
Each chef makes shrimp and grits differently which is part of the fun of ordering it. This version is billed as Cajun, which in my worldview is a naming mistake since its roots are Gullah. But the spice levels are low, so the dish tastes more Lowcountry than Louisiana. It presents a great sauce-to-grits ratio, though, so each forkful carries sophisticated flavor without losing the stoneground grits’ creamy texture. The shrimp are cooked to perfection; the chicken sausage adds mild zing; and sauteed peppers and onions bring a sweet note.
The classic Roman dish cacio e pepe tosses egg-based tagliolini with cheese and black pepper. It’s expertly altered here, swapping Manchego and Burrata for the traditional grated Pecorino Romano. The cheeses melt to become a creamy sauce, and a just-right dose of truffles add umami without overpowering the dish. Ground pepper is scattered around the plate’s rim so you can DIY the preferred amount.
Grilled salmon is cooked to order and, at dinner, served with smoked mashed sweet potatoes, tender-crisp asparagus and tangy pomegranate gastrique. This meal may sound simple, but it tastes like mad skills that likely surpass what you might achieve at home. Love salmon? It’s available on all menus: At lunch it’s roasted, dressed with mustard sour cream and paired with roasted potatoes and an arugula salad; at brunch it’s pan-seared, topped with beetroot mustard sabayon and plated with spoon bread and seasonal veggies. The brunch menu also includes a salmon sesame burger.
Chicken and waffles ranks as a brunch favorite for good reason. A generous serving of fluffy ricotta waffles is topped with fresh berries and powdered sugar, and an eye-popping portion of fried chicken crowds the plate. The fried chicken boasts a mouth-pleasing contrast of crunchy exterior and juicy interior plus surprising spicy heat that cuts through any maple syrup you may have opted to drizzle.
Eggs Benedict presents an egg and hollandaise sauce over your choice of prosciutto, cured salmon or spinach and tomato. That’s all served atop either hashbrowns or puff pastry. To mimic the classic dish, I recommend the prosciutto and puff pastry. Compared to dinner service, the restaurant’s atmosphere at brunch feels more energized with extra servers rushing around.
Save room for the New York-style cheesecake. Dense yet fluffy, rich yet light, sweet yet savory, the portion is generous enough to share.
5Church Buckhead rewards guests with upscale fare, friendly service and vibrant modern decor.
5Church Buckhead
470.819.4841
buckhead.5church-atlanta.com
@5church_buckhead
Prices: Brunch: starters, $14-19; entrees, $14-26; sides, $4-7. Lunch: starters, $14-24; salads, $12-33; entrees, $14-19; sides, $6-20. Dinner: starters, $14-28; entrees, $18-39; prime steaks, $51-160; sides, $6-20. Desserts: $4-13. Drinks: brunch cocktails, $6+; specialty cocktails, $14-18; wine, $10-25/glass and $35-550/bottle; beer, $7-15.
Recommended: Chicken & waffles, baked oysters, sushi tots, shrimp & grits, grilled salmon, NY-style cheesecake.
Bottom line: This funky spin on globally influenced American dining has an upscale vibe with artful presentations of creative dishes, helpful service, modern local art and selfie-ready spaces.
PHOTOS: Madelynne Grace
