A trip to a trio of Hellenic destinations leaves this writer wanting more.
This summer, the world fell in love with scenes from Greece, thanks to Christopher Nolan’s blockbuster film, The Odyssey. I fell in love with it in real life a few months before when, after decades of dreaming about a trip, my husband and I finally booked one.
Ancient Meets Modern
We started, as most people do, in Athens. The cradle of Western civilization still has the natural appeal that made it a powerhouse of the ancient world: a port built around a natural harbor, and mountains and hills dotting the landscape, key for military advantages. The convenient train system took us directly from the airport to Syntagma Square, a two-minute walk to Hotel Grande Bretagne. In 1874, a pair of hoteliers turned a private mansion into one of Athens’ best hotels, a distinction that still holds today, thanks to its collection of antiques, stately interiors and round-the-clock butler service. After a late afternoon arrival, we headed to the on-site restaurant, GB Roof Garden on the eighth floor. I walked into the open-air dining room and was immediately confronted by the sight I’d been waiting to see for as long as I can remember: the Acropolis in all of its glory, a spectacular backdrop to experience a refined Mediterranean- inspired meal.
On our first full day, we took a guided tour to explore the Acropolis and its crown jewel, the Parthenon, up close (pro tip: book the earliest time to avoid the crowds and the heat). We stood on Mars Hill, the spot where the Apostle Paul spoke around 50 A.D., before wandering the lively market streets of the Plaka neighborhood. Another morning, we explored the Agora, known as the birthplace of democracy that became the center of Athenian economic and political life starting in the sixth century B.C. One evening, we took a funicular up to the summit of Lycabettus Hill, central Athens’ highest point that offers a 360-degree view of the city and the Aegean Sea. We tucked into small tavernas for super-fresh seafood and souvlaki, and shopped at the open-air markets in Monastiraki.
Our final night was a real treat, thanks to a 10-course meal at the Michelin-starred restaurant Tudor Hall on the seventh floor of the neighboring King George hotel. Exquisite, petite bites in creative presentations were an ideal sendoff from Greece’s capital city.
Minoan Charm
Next, we took a short flight to Heraklion, the capital of Crete. After the somewhat frenetic pace of Athens, checking into Amirandes, a glamorous 17-acre beachfront resort, felt like a delightful downshift. Our one-bedroom villa came with a plunge pool, a garden with views of the tranquil waves, a spa bathroom and spacious living area. It was supplied with treats such as sheep’s milk cheese and olives from the nearby AgrecoFarms, owned by the hotel’s parent company, Grecotel. We rented a car to explore a bit of the 3,000-square-mile island and found the landscape to be staggering: Snow-capped peaks were visible in the distance, and the coastline varied from wide, sandy beaches to rocky cliffs suspended over teal blue water.
After a bit of striking out on our own, we were content to stay put at the resort for a sort of vacation within- a-vacation. We lolled on the beach beneath umbrellas and drank frothy freddo cappuccinos, had massages at the on-site spa and took a workshop to try our hands at making pottery with a local artisan.
The hotel’s centerpiece is a sprawling decorative pool ringed with palm trees and massive Minoan-inspired clay jars. That set the stage for one of this trip’s most memorable meals, not just for the quality of the food, wine and service, but because of the environment. At Minotaur, dozens of ceramic works by Pablo Picasso are on display. The eccentric artist often drew himself as a minotaur, a mythical creature with the body of a man and the head of a bull, and loved his trips to Crete. Here, each dish is inspired by one of Picasso’s works, creating a heady combination of fine food, delightful wine pairings and extraordinary art.
Santorini Blues
Santorini is on everyone’s list for a reason, with its white-washed buildings, blue domes and views of the caldera formed from a catastrophic volcanic eruption in 1600 B.C. It’s also a magnet for hordes of tourists, particularly in the largest settlements of Fira and Oia. With that in mind, Vedema, a Luxury Collection Resort, was just the right spot. Built into a 400-year-old winery, it’s tucked into the charming village of Megalochori. Though its name translates to “big village,” it’s home to fewer than 600 residents, a few family- run wineries and charming shops. Our villa came with a full kitchen, living room and private pool. Beyond the tranquility of our accommodations, the resort features multiple pools, a spa and two restaurants, plus a breakfast spot. The culinary highlight was Alati, a Greek restaurant in a candle-lit wine cellar, where we listened to live music while relishing red prawn ceviche and a truly memorable dish of red wine-braised beef cheeks in tomato sauce.
One morning, we rose early to beat the crowds in Oia, arriving before lines formed to snap photos of the cobalt domes of the churches and chapels. Just-harvested octopus hung from clotheslines at the restaurants along Amoudi Bay, and from the vantage point of Oia Castle, the sun glittered on the impossibly blue water below. Another day, we ventured to Perissa Beach, where Istoria, a hotel built in former horse stables, was an ideal base from which to enjoy the black volcanic sand, tropical cocktails and uninterrupted sea views. One evening, we headed back to Oia for a dinner of pristine local seafood at Lure, a cliffside restaurant at Mystique, a resort popular with honeymooners. As we sipped glasses of crisp Assyrtiko, a grape that thrives in the island’s volcanic ashrich soil, it was surreal to watch the sun cast a pink glow as it dipped beneath the horizon and, just after, for the hundreds of plunge pools carved into the white-washed cliffs light up in neon blue.
On our final night, we took a cab to Pyrgos, Santorini’s highest village. Shockingly, its white Cycladic architecture and labyrinthine streets are largely unmolested by crowds. We walked the ruins of its castle, built in the 1580s and boasting 360-degree views of the island, and took in a spectacular sunset over Santorini’s famous caldera. During a three-day visit, it was obvious that Santorini is all of the things people claim: beautiful, unique and iconic.
We covered a lot of ground with multiple flights, ferry rides and destinations, but barely scratched the surface of what this vibrant Mediterranean nation has to offer. Ultimately, that’s what some of the best destinations do: They give you a taste and leave you wanting more.
AMIRANDES, A RESORT TO LIVE
grecotel.com/amirandes
@amirandes
HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE
marriott.com/en-us/hotels/athlc-hotel-grandebretagne-a-luxury-collection-hotel-athens
@hotelgrandebretagne
VEDEMA
vedema.gr
@vedema_resort
