Experts in our city’s nail scene break down terms and trends.
Just like fashion, manicure trends are always evolving. Currently, everyone’s talking about BIAB and Russian manicures, but what do they really involve? We asked local experts to break down the techniques.
What is BIAB?
A BIAB manicure is a builder gel manicure, and stands for Builder in a Bottle. While builder gel typically comes in a pot, one brand, The GelBottle, sells it in a bottle, and trademarked the name BIAB. Calling a builder gel manicure a BIAB manicure (which many people do) is like calling a tissue a Kleenex. “Builder gel is a thicker viscosity than traditional gel polish, so it provides structure and durability to your natural nail, but it’s more flexible than acrylic, so it looks and feels more natural,” says Savoy Shakir, nail specialist at private nail studio Bare Clawz salon in Piedmont Heights. As for why this type of manicure is so popular, Shakir says, “People want longer nails without having to get extensions; they want to grow their nails, and they don’t want their manicure to only last two weeks, like traditional gel.” Builder gel meets all these needs, providing structure to the natural nails, which helps them grow. It can last as long as four weeks.
What is a Russian manicure?
A Russian manicure is the trending name for a dry manicure, due to its Eastern European origins. It does not refer to a specific product, but rather to the meticulous method of cuticle preparation done without soaking the nails. Karen Emily of Sirène salon specializes in the technique and says rather than soaking to soften cuticles, she uses special diamond drill bits to buff them away. “Dry manicures last longer than a traditional manicure,” she says. “When nails are soaked, the nail plate expands, so the enhancement is put on the expanded nail. Once it shrinks back down, the product immediately starts pulling away from what was thought to be the parameter of your nail. After the Russian manicure prep, any type of polish can then be applied from traditional gel polish to builder gel. Dry manicures can also help with overall cuticle health. “When the nails are expanded from soaking, you can cut too much of the cuticle, which can cause skin tightening and cracking, or, you can go too far into the side of the nails with the prep, which causes hang nails,” says Emily.
What Nail Trend is “Out?”
Both Emily and Shakir say, “SNS!” SNS is one specific brand name of the dip powders that became popular for two reasons: The strength it provides nails, and that the process doesn’t include curing with a light. But Emily says, “SNS is the worst product you can put on your nails. It’s not really the product; it’s the removal process that is so damaging.” However, products and techniques have evolved. Curing lights no longer use damaging UV light, but safe LED light, and builder gel offers strength without the damaging removal process of soaking in acetone and heavy filing, like SNS.
Ultimately, both BIAB and Russians manicures are great options for nails, and next time you go to the salon to get one, now you’ll know exactly what you’re asking for.
KAREN EMILY
sireneatl.com
@k.emily.atl
SAVOY SHAKIR
@bareclawzatl
PHOTO: Erik Meadows
