BISTRO NIKO TRANSPORTS GUESTS TO THE CITY OF LIGHT!
A foodie’s exploration of Paris, “The City of Love,” can spark multiple feelings: fondness for a certain pastry, passion for a specific ingredient, a crush on a particular restaurant, obsession with a sauce or heart-fluttering wonder about what tasty discoveries lurk around the next corner. Bistro Niko, located in the Sovereign building in the heart of Buckhead’s business district, can cause the same reactions. Head here to satisfy longings for French fare, whether you’re curious to try it for the first time or looking to satiate cravings between overseas trips. The restaurant’s interior captures the essence of French decor, from its swirled ceilings to its red leather seats, from its bustling servers to its energetic din, from the baskets brimming with baguettes in the open kitchen to the neat rows of bottles at the bar.
Opened in 2009 as part of the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, the menu at Bistro Niko was influenced by the founders’ food-focused trip to Paris and honed by tasting hundreds of dishes. It presents modern Parisian dishes for Atlantan palates. Even menu items that aren’t classic French have a French accent.
Love at first bite is a genuine possibility. For me, it happened with the “mushroom and truffle essence,” a French pizza topped with mushrooms, gruyère and fontina cheese. In my first review of the restaurant written shortly after its grand opening, I said of that dish: “Try to steal a piece from me, and your hand will get forked!” I stand by the threat 15 years later, though I have in that time shared a slice or two, albeit reluctantly. The tarte is always part of my order, whatever the season, time or day, or level of hunger.
My newest infatuation is the Spécialité Le St. Germain cocktail, a refreshing combination of elderflower liqueur, champagne and club soda. A mini carafe of the food-friendly drink with floral and yeasty notes fills an ice-packed, lemon-garnished rocks glass about two and a half times, enough to share or keep for yourself to accompany a meal.
While wearing precious clothes, I wouldn’t order a tureen of French onion soup, though some consider the contrast of sweet, tangy and earthy flavors worth the risk of a splash. I find it a bit too sweet, but my husband digs in at every opportunity. Burgundy escargot en croûte tops chewy snails with crisp rounds of pastry—tasty, though a bit too garlicky for me. Traditional country pâté, billed as Chef Gary Donlick’s specialty, is firm and hearty with salty umami; served with cornichon pickles, grainy mustard and baguette toast, it’s like a picnic on a platter.
Coq au vin is a perennial best-seller for good reason. This French classic of braised chicken in red wine with mushrooms and pearl onions yields tender meat and a brownish- red sauce packed with fruity and earthy flavors. Steamed potatoes are added to help soak up sauce; use crusty bread or crispy pomme frites (fries) for sopping up every drop. Equally delicious with softer flavors, veal tenderloins chasseur pair rounds of tender meat with mushrooms, tomato, potato confit and a white wine veal jus. It’s the sort of dish that you could attempt to make at home but probably wouldn’t, so it feels like a treat. Steak au poivre is a spicier option with pepper-crusted twin beef tenderloins, addictive brandied cream mushrooms and sauteed spinach. Tangy and salty, Florida shrimp provencal cooks the shellfish with crushed tomatoes, herbs de Provence, shallots, white wine and fingerling potatoes.
Saturday and Sunday brunch features several dishes that also appear on the lunch and dinner menus along with breakfast options. Eggs Benedict layers grilled ham and poached eggs atop brioche toast that’s not quite strong enough to hold up to its toppings yet yummy by the forkful. More impressive is the Croque Madame, a classic French sandwich meant to be eaten with fork and knife; it’s like a fancy grilled cheese filled with ham and gruyère cheese topped with mornay sauce and a perfectly cooked sunny side egg.
Save room for dessert. The French classic île flotante is an elegant treat featuring fluffy light “floating islands” of soft meringue on a pool of crème anglaise with toasted almond slices on top for crunchy contrast. Crème brûlée marries soft custard with crunchy burnt sugar for a delightful contrast of flavor and texture. Profiteroles sandwich ice cream between halved choux pastry puffs drizzled with chocolate sauce for added happiness.
Inspired by “The City of Light,” Bistro Niko sparkles with eye-catching design, upscale fare, attentive service and abundant energy.
Bistro Niko
Prices: signature cocktails, $13-15; wines, $12-28/glass; beer, $5.50-13.50; hors d’oeuvres, $15-28; oysters, $20-38; tartes, $19; salads, $12-17; charcuterie, $16-29; sides, $8; sandwiches, $18-23; mains, $18-49; steaks, $52-54; desserts, $12-16; three-course dinner, $49.
Recommended: Le St. Germain cocktail, mushroom and truffle tarte, veal tenderloins chasseur, coq au vin, croque madame, pommes frites, île flottante.
Bottom line: Upscale bar and bistro with a bustling vibe that serves French fare and drinks with modern twists.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
