Springtime in a bottle!
Spring is the season of renewal (think green shoots erupting in blossoms and trees alive with new leaves). New starts and fresh takes can also come in the form of food and beverages, with bright, refreshing and verdant flavors. Leave it to talented sommeliers to find bottles that match the optimism of the season.
Remy Loet was born to be a sommelier. Named for a family friend who loved Remy Martin Cognac, he now curates and maintains the large and wide-ranging wine list at Aria in Buckhead. As the restaurant’s menu shifts to showcase spring produce, Loet’s pairing suggestions shift as well.
“Spring wines should be versatile and adaptable,” says Loet, noting the unpredictability of early spring weather in Atlanta. “The best spring wines are those that evoke freshness and energy, with vibrant fruit, a refreshing acidity and the ability to transition seamlessly from a warm afternoon sip to pairing beautifully with an evening meal.” A bottle should be food-friendly and approachable.
When he thinks of spring, Loet looks to the wines of Alice Anderson of Amevive winery in Santa Ynez, California. The labels alone are reason enough to include them on a spring table. Painted by her mother, Eileen, and designed together, they illustrate the flora and fauna stewarded by Anderson in the vineyard. Watercolors of rabbits, bumblebees, mushrooms, milkweed and monarch butterflies are as springy as the contents within.
“Each bottle tells a story of respect for nature, diversity and the artistry of winemaking,” Loet says. “The wines, with their bright acidity, fresh fruit notes and vibrant energy, remind me of the essence of spring—alive with possibility, refreshing and full of character.”
Amevive Albariño is a vibrant white with aromas of citrus blossoms, green apple and wet stone, reflecting the California coast with its bright, saline character and regional influences. “Its crisp acidity and refreshing minerality evoke a sense of the ocean breeze and rugged coastal landscape,” Loet says. At Aria, he suggests it with the yellowtail Hamachi sashimi with Fuji apple, avocado, radish, cilantro and ponzu sauce.
Ashley Kientzle, beverage director for Ray’s Restaurants, also thinks first of Albariño. The white grape typically grown in Northern Spain is often as floral as springtime blooms with a lingering acidity. She suggests Nora Albariño from Galacia, Spain. She pairs the straw-colored white with orders of oysters. “It’s crisp, dry and medium-bodied with high aromatic intensity, and has notes of pear, white flowers and tropical fruit,” she says.
The herbaceous qualities and zesty acidity of medium-dry Sauvignon Blancs makes them a perfect accompaniment to the emergence of spring. Kientzle likes a glass with a simply grilled fish with lemon, such as Ray’s Alaskan halibut with lemon cream sauce. “Groth Sauvignon Blanc has sunny lemon coloring and bright aromas of honeydew melon, green apple and pear,” she says. She suggests a glass of Sonoma County Trione Sauvignon Blanc to pair with the eatery’s ahi tuna poke appetizer. The high acidity cuts through the creaminess of the avocado base, making each bite taste fresh.
When it comes to red wines for springtime, Loet thinks toward Amevive Syrah from the Ibarra-Young Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. “It’s deeply expressive with notes of black plum, violets and cracked pepper with elegant structure and a balanced acidity,” he says. The Syrah, with a leaping jackrabbit on the label, requires three harvests of differing ripeness to achieve layers of structure and depth. Personally, Loet pairs a bottle with roasted lamb.
The coming of spring also calls for something sparkling. With lively light bubbles, Ruinart Brut Rosé Champagne has Kientzle’s endorsement. “With a combination of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, it is a silky and delicate toast to spring.”
ARIA
404.233.7673
aria-atl.com
@ariaatlanta
RAY’S ON THE RIVER
770.955.1187
raysrestaurants.com
@raysontheriver
