Head north for wintry fun in this state capital!
I grew up in a state where winter was always intense. But after moving to Atlanta, I was thrilled to kiss my ice scrapers and fur-lined boots goodbye. Still, come winter, I sometimes have a twinge of romantic nostalgia for woolen scarves, down-filled parkas and thawing out by a fireside.
A winter visit to Providence, Rhode Island, brought those twinges back to life. While snow lingered on lawns, that down-filled coat (that still fit!) kept the chills at bay as I toured around this capital city in the cold. Many of the top attractions are indoors, so there was always a chance to shed a few layers while exploring spots like the state capitol, the Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art (affectionately dubbed RISD) and the city’s wealth of restaurants.
A stroll along the banks of the Providence River and the Brown University campus led to a warming cup of java and spinach goat cheese croissants at Brown Bee Coffee, where on weekends, the line often winds along the sidewalk as patrons wait for the limited seating in the quaint space. The surrounding College Hill district offered sweeping views of the skyline and is home to Benefit Street, dubbed the “mile of history” for its array of 18th- and 19th-century houses and buildings. Among the most notable are the 1788 John Brown House, one of the city’s original dwellings and now a repository for artifacts from the capital’s early days, and the oldest property, the 1707 house owned by Declaration of Independence signer Stephen Hopkins. Nearby, the Greek Revival Providence Athenaeum, founded in 1836, is a lending library with a cache of rare books as well as contemporary editions displayed alongside beautiful statuary and artworks.
As a bargain hunter and a shopper always looking for local crafts to bring home, I found the Providence Flea fit the bill. Its assortment of 75 stalls features clothing, jewelry, crafts, artworks and baked goods. The city’s robust arts scene is anchored by RISD, where yearround programs feature hands-on activities and artists’ talks.
Sightseeing can work up a serious appetite, and Providence has a vibrant culinary scene. A visit of just a few hours was not enough to take in the edible delights of the historic Federal Hill, known as Little Italy. The streets are dotted with restaurants, cafes and markets specializing in Italian treats. Venda Ravioli is a standout, featuring cases and shelves packed with housemade pastas, imported meats and cheeses, breads and sauces ready to savor at home. Those who can’t wait for a taste can head next door to Costantino’s Venda Bar & Ristorante where the same goodies are on the menu. I did take home a sweet cream-filled cornetto from Scialo Brothers Bakery and an oversized slice of chocolate mousse cake from Pastiche Fine Desserts, despite having had a decadent dinner at Bellini’s, an upscale Italian eatery where every morsel was memorable. For a quick bite, Track 15 in historic Union Station offered options including made-on-thespot tortillas, oven-fired pizzas and a full bar.
In warmer months, the WaterFire event puts braziers on the river and draws crowds to the water. A few holiday dates are also added in December. That sounds intriguing—enough to make me pull out the big coat again.
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