OAXACA BRINGS MEXICO’S RENOWNED GASTRONOMIC REGION TO CHAMBLEE!
Photo-ready dishes consistently pop out of the open kitchen at Oaxaca (wah-hah-kah) in Chamblee, often with vibrant colors and abundant garnishes. The artful presentations advertise the robust layers of aromas and flavors packed into each creation.
Oaxaca uses familiar ingredients in its dishes that are rooted in the indigenous culinary traditions of Oaxaca, Mexico, one of its country’s top foodie destinations. A variety of moles and salsas dot the food menu while mezcal reigns over the cocktail list.
Though it’s located on the ground level of an apartment complex, Oaxaca’s sleek, modern decor has a bohemian atmosphere with its wood tables, green plants, woven chairs and wicker light fixtures. Bottles sparkle over the bar on shelves suspended from the high ceiling. High-volume music pumps up the vibe, even during off-peak hours. The aesthetic flows from the main dining room onto a large, covered patio.
Servers offer recommendations and answers to any questions about the menu with a smile and are attentive without hovering. A bottle of chilled water is delivered to the table shortly after arrival, so you can easily keep your water glass full.
Drinks push fresh flavors forward, whether made with or without alcohol. Horchata, a sweet and creamy rice-based drink with a cinnamon kick, is liquid comfort that satisfies as a standalone treat, alongside food or in place of dessert. Hibiscus agua fresca refreshes with a tart zing reminiscent of cranberries. Agave Rising Sun, one of the restaurant’s most popular cocktails, is available by the glass, though after a few sips I was craving a pitcher. Crisp cucumber juice is enhanced by sweet-tart notes of pineapple and lime juice with a soft undercurrent of tequila. A stylish arc of red spices coats one side of the glass, adding the option of pungent heat.
Spicy-sweet with a snap of vinegar, ceviche de camaron piles pink shrimp, green and orange peppers, pale avocados, iridescent onions and red tomatoes into a big beige bowl for a visual akin to dabs of paint on an artist’s palette. Other starters include the pale green sphere of guacamole that arrives studded with herbs, flowers, nuts and radishes for a tantalizing mix of colors, textures and flavors to shovel into your mouth with warm house-made tortilla chips. Don’t miss the tetela de pato that stuffs duck confit, black beans and Oaxaca cheese into a traditional triangular masa casing wrapped with leaves of hoja santa, a peppery herb. It’s plated on a base of tamarind mole with sweet, tart and sour notes.
A star among the main dishes, enchiladas divorciadas smother its chicken-stuffed tortillas in green and red sauces divided by a stripe of sour cream topped with thin, shiny onion slices and perky microgreens. Packed with tolerable heat, each forkful is a winner. Looking like a Mexican pizza and packed with umami, steak tlayuda, a popular street food in the Oaxaca region, covers a crispy tortilla with bite-sized slices of marinated skirt steak, black beans, Oaxaca cheese, avocado, strips of pipicha (a Mexican herb with a coriander/ anise taste) and salsa macha, a spicy/nutty/garlicky accompaniment.
Green mole pipian impresses with fork-tender, braised wagyu short rib smothered in a browntinged green sauce made with herbs and nuts. Its version of mole was new to me; with no spicy heat, its earthy flavors were too good not to scoop up every drop with the warm tortillas served alongside. Burrito de langostinos packs a soft, warm tortilla with sweet juicy jumbo shrimp, tender avocado, hearty black beans and a hefty serving of rice. A piquant red sauce delivers sweetness in each mouthful.
The carne asada taco exceeds the expectations of its simple menu description: marinated skirt steak, cilantro, onions. Turns out three ingredients tucked into a warm corn tortilla can deliver superb flavor. The pescado al sarten fish taco tops sauteed flounder with pickled onions, cabbage and aioli. Tasty, though the fish is overcooked to a crispy bacon-like texture. Since the large corn tortilla isn’t griddled, the steak quesadilla comes across as a larger version of the carne asada taco, with grilled onions and the addition of Oaxaca cheese.
Desserts take regional cooking traditions in creative new directions. The café de olla tres leches adds coffee flavor to the famed milk-soaked cake. Though arguably a great idea, the cake disappointed with its dense texture and bitter note. A cousin to strawberry shortcake, strawberry tamal proved the better choice. A traditional corn tamale transforms from savory to sweet with juicy strawberries and creamy vanilla ice cream.
Chamblee’s Oaxaca may inspire you to verify that your passport is up-to-date. One meal at this restaurant can whet your appetite to learn more about Mexico’s, coastal state. Until you travel to our southern neighbor, Oaxaca presents so many temptations on its menu that you’ll need multiple visits to try them all.
Oaxaca
770.450.4805
oaxacaatl.com
@oaxacaatl
Prices: Cocktails, $13-16; beer, $7-8; non-alcoholic libations, $5-12; tacos, $7-8; starters, $8-19; entrees, $17-45; sides, $7-10; desserts, $15.
Recommended: Hibiscus agua fresca, Agave Rising Sun cocktail, tetela de pato, herb guacamole, ceviche de camaron, carne asada taco, green mole pipian, enchiladas divorciadas.
Bottom line: This modern Mexican restaurant with a high-volume energy serves traditional and creative Oaxacan fare alongside top-notch drinks.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
