DIG INTO FIERY FUN AT ALMA COCINA BUCKHEAD!
Among my life philosophies: Everything tastes better in a tortilla. At Alma Cocina Buckhead, I persuaded my husband to split a lunch order of two lechoncito (suckling pig) tacos so we could try other dishes, too. One bite into my taco, I began regretting every bite he took of his. Pork carnitas, onions, cilantro, and salsa verde fill each soft corn tortilla, and chicharron crumble elevated the familiar dish. I craved more, even days later. Tortillas aren’t essential to wow your mouth at Alma Cocina Buckhead. The Smoke & Berries cocktail with two rums, a spicy chile liqueur and blackberries. It arrives shimmering purple in a rocks glass under a sprig of mint on a floating lime island.
The show’s not over: A staffer places a round wooden disk atop the glass, lights a center chimney and lifts the gizmo away. A cloud of smoke lingers long enough to ooh and ahh. Fried Chihuahua cheese also entertains the eyes before the tongue. Arriving in a large molcajete (stone bowl), the crusted cheese is surrounded by bubbling hot salsa verde. Our server used a big silver spoon to first slice the block to reveal its white interior then stir things together into a queso dip. Ladle the gooey mixture into warm corn tortillas for a satisfying snack with a powerful, spicy punch. Similarly, the chicken empanadas look like innocent stuffed pastries, but they’re packing serious heat. Sliced green olives alongside lend a salty zing.
At an earlier dinner, we devoured huarache, a dish named for its sandal-shaped, corn dough base. Topped with barbecue brisket, black bean puree, pickled red onions and queso fresco, it came across as authentic Mexican, genuine Tex-Mex and bona fide Southern cuisine all at once with savory, tangy and subtle sweet notes.
Mushroom and corn enchiladas could persuade a carnivore to eat a vegetarian meal. The dish is a popular favorite that’s lingered on the menu for good reason. Its eye-appealing array of red, green, black and white hues match its robust earthy, sweet and acidic flavors.
Dig into a range of flavor combinations with the guacamole and salsa tasting. Featuring six different dips with a generous side of big round chips, it’s a winner to eat as well as spark conversation among dining companions. I favored the traditional guac, while my husband was an instant fan of the seasonal creation with dates. It’s a great starter, side and/or to-go option for later snacking.
Roasted chicken mole smothers a juicy airline chicken breast with a scrumptious sauce that boasts complex and well-balanced spice flavors. Mashed plantains and grilled green beans sides lend sweetness to the meal. If you can only order one item, consider this impressive presentation of one of Mexico’s longest-standing culinary traditions that dates back to pre-Columbian times.
Pork cochinita pibil is a traditional Yucatán-style barbecue dish. It’s served as a mini build-your-own tacos platter with a pile of the tender meat plus refried charro beans, plantains, pickled onion, cotija cheese and warm corn tortillas. The sweet meat can include some fatty chunks; pick them out if that’s not your thing.
Some tables inside Alma Cocina Buckhead are the usual square or rectangle, but others are odd shapes without a ready name; their advantage is that two diners in the habit of large orders have space for extra plates. The restaurant’s decor has an industrial greenhouse vibe with concrete and wood offset by abundant verdant plants. A pleasant mix of instrumental and Spanish language music plays in the background. Smiling staff members bustle around, yet we felt welcome to linger on each visit. Servers’ recommendations seemed more sincere than a mere pitch to help the kitchen use up ingredients.
Can’t finish every bite you ordered? No problem. Many dishes fare well with later reheating, including unfilled soft corn tortillas (tacos are best consumed fresh). Chips left sitting in a paper bag on our kitchen counter still snapped crisp 24 hours later, ready for the guacamoles and salsas stashed in the refrigerator.
If you’ve saved room for dessert, go for the churros. The fried dough logs sprinkled with cinnamon sugar are tasty on their own and even better dipped into the decadent chocolate and caramel banana sauces. After a spicy feast, it’s a treat to go sweet.
Alma Cocina Buckhead is located in the Terminus development surrounded by the hubbub of traffic and corporate culture. Step inside for a flavorful respite.
Alma Cocina Buckhead
404.873.4676
alma-atlanta.com/alma-cocina-buckhead
@alma.atl
Prices: Guacamoles and salsas, $4-25; small plates, $12-20; tacos, $13-24; main plates, $15-44; sides, $5-10; cocktails, $10-18; wines, $11-18/glass; beer, $7-8; tequila flights, $25-90. New “Muy Rapido” menu lunch plates, $15.
Recommended: Smoke & Berries cocktail, fried chihuahua cheese, tacos lechoncito, roasted chicken mole, mushroom and corn enchiladas.
Bottom line: With industrial-chic decor and a welcoming vibe, this relaxed upscale restaurant presents modern Mexican fare alongside high-quality, creative cocktails.
PHOTOS: Madelynne Grace
