PERSONALITY ABOUNDS AT LOCAL THREE KITCHEN & BAR!
Craving contemporary American cuisine but in no mood for formality? You’ll find kindred spirits at Local Three Kitchen & Bar. Owned by three locals, Todd Mussman, Ryan Turner and chef Chris Hall, this place is passionate about food and drinks yet keeps the overall vibe laid-back. Inside the Piazza on Paces office building that houses Local Three, pass through the sterile lobby to a dark hallway on the right with a pig statue.
It leads to an alcove where a painting of actor Jeff Bridges as “The Dude” in The Big Lebowski smirks at guests from behind the reception stand. Elvis paintings on the adjacent wall face the main dining room. Smile-inducing art isn’t limited to the walls: Every table has a unique set of salt and pepper shakers, from guinea pigs, cacti and wizard hats to a grandma and slot machine.
The message is that you’re welcome to be yourself, however one-of-a kind that may be, and that life is more fun if you keep a sense of humor. But while you can casually relax and enjoy some laughs, don’t think that means you won’t get fabulous food and drink. The culinary philosophy here is “you can’t argue with delicious.” High skills are on display with every dish brought to the table.
The dinner, happy hour and Sunday brunch menus offer comfort foods and sophisticated creations, all while steering clear of over-complicating things. Inspired by the season and driven by the availability of quality ingredients, the options change often, though some popular items linger. To accompany food, the bar mixes well-balanced cocktails alongside beer, wine and a collection of over 1,000 whiskies, including some featured barrel selections. With so many options, how to choose a pour? Down-to-earth descriptions simplify the process.
Any beverage will go with Brooke’s focaccia. Two large rectangles of thick bread boast a crunchy exterior and lovely soft interior. Subtle orange and thyme notes lurk in the olive oil that’s drizzled across the plate while cloves of roasted garlic sprinkled about are ready to smear into the bread if you’d like to add some sweet nuttiness.
Oysters Rockefeller tops soft, briny bivalve mollusks with garlic, spinach, bacon and parmesan. Served hot, the mild oysters are dominated by the decadent creamed spinach, ensuring that oyster lovers and non-fans can both happily spoon or slurp these dreamy bites out of their rough shells. Fish schnitzel encases flaky white flounder in a delicate, crisp breading. Two pieces rest in a puddle of lemon-pepper sauce, all topped with scattered peas. The combination of tangy citrus, snappy vegetal and salty fish is a whole greater than the sum of its parts.
Among the mains, pan-seared North Georgia trout is a standout. The fork-tender fish is flaky and mild. It arrives planked above Parisienne gnocchi made with flour instead of potatoes but equally toothsome tender and topped with warm peas and radish. A splash of lemon and brown butter adds tart snap and silky warmth to the dish that manages to combine comfort and elegance.
The market fish and its preparation change routinely, but if panseared halibut with moqueca molho is available the day of your visit, consider yourself a lottery winner. The filet, cooked to perfection, arrives atop jasmine rice smothered with a rich sauce inspired by the Brazilian fish stew. With balanced notes of herbs, acidity and spice, the dish comes across like a scrumptious cousin of shrimp and grits.
Lobster mac and cheese, a pick from the Chef’s Corner (aka daily special) section of the menu on one of our visits, was another lucky gift of good timing. Served in a mini cast iron crock, pasta spirals drip with cheese as segments of shellfish hide throughout. It’s delicious.
Robust and cozy, wedges of savory lamb pot roast arrive swimming in gravy. Roasted sweet cippolini onions, earthy carrots and starchy new potatoes are nestled around the tender meat while a dollop of zesty mint pistou sits on top. The dish manages to taste like spring and winter at once.
Depending on the day of your visit, you might be tempted by something like pastrami-spiced duck breast, an expertly cooked heart of ribeye steak, Asian-inspired chicken or grilled dry-aged Duroc pork chop. Trust whatever most piques your interest on whatever menu you’re handed upon arrival; it’s not like you can go wrong here.
Save room for dessert. The peanut butter cup fills a crisp, brownie-like chocolate shell with soft peanut butter mousse topped with chocolate ganache and smattering of peanuts. The dish fulfills childlike fantasies while impressing adult palates. Banofee tart fills a crisp-tender graham cracker crust with Dulcey (blonde chocolate) mousse and caramelized banana toffee. Its combination of toasted tropical and buttery-earthy flavors satisfies the soul. Both sweet treats are large enough to share, though you might regret every bite your dining companion takes.
Come hungry. Each mouthful invites another.
Local Three Kitchen & Bar
404.968.2700
localthree.com
@localthree
Prices: Dinner: Starters, $6-22; oysters, MKT; charcuterie or cheese, $28; mains, $28-45; steaks, $45-66; burger, $22; dessert, $14-16. Bar: beer, $6-8; house cocktails, $15-25; wine/glass, $13-22; barrel selections, $12-20. Sunday brunch buffet: $35/adult, $20/child.
Recommended: Oysters Rockefeller, Georgia Mountain trout, lamb pot roast, peanut butter cup, banoffee tart, any daily special that piques your interest.
Bottom line: With quirky decor, a relaxed vibe and friendly service, this upscale eatery presents contemporary American cuisine alongside a full bar with an impressive bourbon selection.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
