Portugal is a wonderland of culture, history and natural beauty.
Travel can be lots of things. Sometimes it’s motivated by celebration, reconnection or discovery. Other times, we hope the trip will help heal us. After my husband and I lost two beloved dogs in a span of three weeks, a trip to Portugal—a destination on my wish list for ages—felt like a lifeline.
We started our week-long journey in Lisbon at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, adjacent to the lush Parque Eduardo VII. The luxurious hotel inhabits a 10-story building originally constructed in 1959 during the dictatorship of Antonio Salazar. Though it’s an easy downhill stroll to the lively city center neighborhoods of Principe Real and Barrio Alto, the Chiado location is quiet by comparison. Our recently renovated room felt both modern and midcentury, with a marble-clad bathroom, a wood-paneled mini bar stocked with local favorites (including Portugal’s famous pastry, pastel de nata) and an ample balcony with sweeping city views. The property’s 59-foot indoor spa pool, outdoor pool and wraparound rooftop running track (an ideal sunset spot) would make it easy to stay here instead of exploring.
Naturally, though, exploring is the whole point, so we struck out to see the highlights. We queued up for the Jerónimos Monastery, built in the 1500s and known for its hauntingly beautiful Gothic Manueline style; wandered past the 16th century Belém Tower; and snapped pictures of Monument of the Discoveries overlooking the Tagus River. Many of our best moments, however, wouldn’t be found in a guidebook, from sipping vinho verde in the afternoon to perusing colorful cans of tinned fish that could easily double as art.
Craving some time in a less cosmopolitan place, we drove an hour and a half south to Comporta. Located in the Alentejo region, the area was once the domain of rice paddies and fishermen. That changed in the 1990s when local land developers began to market it as a destination for holiday seekers, capitalizing on its miles of pristine beaches. Its lowkey luxury has earned it a reputation as “the Hamptons of Portugal.”
Independente Comporta, set on nearly 30 acres and surrounded by wild, scrubby pines, was the perfect home base for a few days in the sun. In addition to sprawling multi bedroom villas, it has 40 hotel rooms, each with a private terrace with outdoor daybed. They surround the heart of the property with a wellness-focused spa and a saltwater pool with adjoining Bóia cafe and bar serving wood-fired pizzas, fresh salads and kicky cocktails. Even with multiple meals at Michelin-starred restaurants during this trip, my most memorable dish was at the hotel’s charming Maroto eatery. The emerald- hued coriander and garlic rice we enjoyed alongside Alentejo black pork haunts my dreams.
We booked umbrella-shaded chairs at Sublime Comporta Beach Club and feasted on garlic shrimp at Restaurante Sal, just a few sandy steps away. One night, Cavalariça, a Michelin guide restaurant built into a former horse stable, delighted with locally caught oysters and aged steak with chimichurri.
Though I could have given my credit card a workout shopping for designer fashion or craftsman-made home items in Comporta’s boho-chic downtown, I fell in love with the Independente’s hand-painted pottery espresso cups. The receptionist was kind enough to write down the name of the unexpected source: a roadside shop just out of town. The shopkeeper spoke almost no English, but we negotiated on some of my favorite mementos of a trip that, while it couldn’t completely heal my broken heart, did remind me that the world holds plenty of joy.
In Portugal, locals often say, “A vida é boa,” or “life is good.” On this trip, I wholeheartedly agreed.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON
fourseasons.com/pt/lisbon
@fslisbon
INDEPENDENTE COMPORTA
independente.eu/comporta
@/independente.comporta
