Three days in San Juan, no passport required!

With travel requirements becoming stricter and long-haul flights growing less attractive, some tourists are looking for destinations that are easy to get to but still give off distinctly different vibes. That combination has benefited Puerto Rico, where visitors are flocking post-pandemic. For last year alone, Forbes magazine reported an 8% increase in island tourism, and it’s easy to see why: American visitors don’t need passports or to deal with immigration; direct flights are under four hours from Atlanta; the tropical climate and beautiful beaches are inviting; there’s virtually no language barrier; and the cultural distinctions are enough to make visitors feel like they’re not in Buckhead anymore.

A recent three-day jaunt to the capital, San Juan, provided plenty of time to hit the beach, take a food tour, explore the city’s 504-year-old history and relax with a spa treatment at the recently renovated San Juan Marriott Resort and Stellaris Casino. Situated on the popular stretch of Condado Beach, the property marked its 30th anniversary in May with the completion of a major makeover. Guests will now find upgraded rooms with hardwood floors and walk-in showers; the Caribbean themed Cosecha restaurant, a to-go market and coffee bar; a revamped lobby bar with ample room for salsa dancing after dinner; and new pickleball and tennis courts, and a poolside cabana area.
Guests can also borrow bikes and follow the scenic coastal path into the oldest section of San Juan, anchored by the imposing Castillo San Felipe del Morro, commonly called El Morro. The Spanish began building it in 1539, and the massive fortifications, highlighted by a 140- foot stone wall, weren’t finished until 1790, by which point the fort had earned the city a reputation as the best guarded port in the Caribbean.

Nearby is Quincentennial Plaza, built in 1992 to mark the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s 1492 arrival and anchored by a 40-foot totem symbolizing the start of the New World. It’s also the usual starting point for Spoon food tours, led by local guides passionate about food, drink and history. On this trip, I joined a group of visitors for an almost four-hour walking/eating/ drinking excursion hosted by “Wiki Pablo,” who regaled us with eyebrow-raising facts that, after researching to verify, turned out to be true. I had two favorite fun facts. First, the old city was designed so that at any time of the day, one side of the narrow cobblestone streets is always in the shade, providing a cool respite from the tropical sun. Second, the Cathedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista is the oldest cathedral in the U.S. (as Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory) and the second oldest in the Americas, dating back to 1521.
It’s hard to say which was most engrossing: the history or the food. Our stops were a mix of old and new locations and independent companies, starting at the Café Don Ruiz, where we sipped coffee from locally grown and on-site ground beans. At Deaverdura, velvety slivers of slow-roasted pork shoulder were served with rice and fried plantains, a combination of flavors recreated from recipes written down by the owner’s grandmother. Empanadas paired with a cocktail of rum, Caribbean cherry and lime were featured at Birra & Empanadas, and the adventure ended with chocolate martinis and croquetas at Chocobar. Though it was hard to leave San Juan’s warm climate and wealth of food and culture, getting home in about four hours meant it will be easy to return the next time I need a long-weekend getaway.
DISCOVER PUERTO RICO
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SAN JUAN MARRIOTT RESORT & STELLARIS CASINO
787.722.7000
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@marriottbonvoy

Atlanta-based writer and editor contributing to a number of local and state-wide publications. Instructor in Georgia State’s Communication department and Emory’s Continuing Education division.