ESCAPE THE ORDINARY AT BROOKHAVEN’S TERRA TERROIR!
My dining companion looked skeptically around the strip mall parking lot. She’d been promised a celebratory dinner. Here? Doubts vanished inside Brookhaven’s award winning Terra Terroir. “Wow!” she gasped at each turn as we were escorted to a table. Walking past the open kitchen and wooden bar into the covered patio feels like stepping into a secret garden. Its trickling waterfall, lush green plants and colorful strands of lights defy the bistro’s humble locale. Additional areas include the bar and private dining rooms. There’s also a wine cave where Sommelier Chris Driollet hosts tastings for up to eight guests at a time.
Helming the kitchen is Chef Charles Zeran, a two-time winner of the AAA Diamond Chef Award who is also an experienced sommelier. His eclectic lunch and dinner menus show American, European and Asian influences. Dishes boast layered flavors, skillful preparations and artful presentations.
Food menus are presented with multiple wine lists plus a cocktail menu. Terra Terroir has won more than 15 national wine awards. Its 200-plus labels showcase global selections by Driollet and Zeran. To share its experts’ wine knowledge beyond the restaurant’s physical space, Terra Terroir posts a weekly “Somm vs. Somm argument” on its website. Continuing a service that drew global fans during the pandemic, Driollet hosts virtual wine tastings for groups and events.
Need help with wine and food pairings? The pros are ready to offer suggestions. But if you’re confident in your own abilities, they trust you know your own palate. This is a welcoming place where servers are attentive without hovering. Don’t skip the bread unless you must. Crusty with a tender center, it arrives warm and ready to slather with pale yellow butter for a comforting start to any meal.
Gambas al Ajillo, Spanish garlic shrimp, is a crowd-pleasing starter whether you love perfectly toothsome shrimp, dipping bread into sizzling olive oil infused with garlic and red pepper or both scrumptious experiences. Other popular starters include roasted Brussels sprout halves topped with tangy balsamic and salty parmesan; the portion is too generous for two. A crispy-coated, soft-centered jumbo lump crabcake is plated with spicy yams and tangy tomato cucumber compote. Skin-on French fries are garnished with earthy truffle oil and salty parmesan. “Rice crispy treats” are rolled rounds of sushi rice with spicy tuna in sesame toasted puffed rice and nori, served with sriracha aioli and ponzu dipping sauces.
French Country Supper is a menu standout featuring fork-tender duck leg confit; the savory meat makes a solid argument that flavor lovers should be eating more duck and less chicken. It’s served alongside andouille sausage that’s packed with flavor yet manages to avoid becoming too spicy, a cannellini bean cassoulet bound to make you love white beans, tender haricots vert (green beans) and a zesty cranberry chutney.
Coconut Thai salmon comes cooked-to-temperature atop basmati rice dotted with black lentils, adorable little mushrooms, ombre green bok choy and a pool of coconut curry broth spiced just right. “The spice level can be adjusted to your preference,” our server suggested. I just shrugged and somehow the chef knew exactly what I wanted. An all-vegetables and rice vegan version of the dish is also offered.
Mimicking a painters’ palette, expertly-seared sea scallops are beautifully plated atop risotto surrounded by baby carrots, English peas, puddles of ginger carrot reduction and drizzles of sweet pea coulis. Each forkful delivers bright flavors.
The menu offers something for everyone and any level of hunger, from lighter options like grapefruit and pomegranate salad with mixed greens to hearty meat-centric plates like the showy, slow-braised Duroc pork shank with creamy parmesan polenta. Assorted charcuterie and cheese might accompany a wine tasting, or you might opt for the rib-brisket half-pound burger topped with bacon, gruyere cheese, greens, pickled onions, tomato and spicy mayo. Steaks and seafood are routinely available, or perhaps the daily special will pique your interest.
A server at a neighboring table asked, “Would you folks like another cocktail?” No, they said, just the dessert menu. “Oh, very important!” the server enthused. I can’t argue with her priorities.
The flourless chocolate torte is enough to share. Served warm in a shallow round dish, its rich, deep flavors are sure to satisfy any chocoholic. The tender cake is topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a piped star of whipped cream, strawberry, blueberries, raspberry coulis and a chocolate curl. As the ice cream melts into the cake, bittersweet notes are rounded by ethereal vanilla flavors. Other temptations include apple pie pizza, sweet potato bread pudding, sorbet, crème brûlée and sabayon.
Whether you’re celebrating or simply want to transform a regular day into a memorable one, Brookhaven’s Terra Terroir is ready to surprise and impress.
Terra Terroir
404.620.5274
terraterroir.com
@terraterroirbistro
Prices: Raw bites, $19-23; appetizers, $15-25; salads, $15-26; mains, $19-49; wines, $8-24/glass, $10-420/bottle; cocktails $14-18.
Recommended: Gambas al Ajillo, French Country Supper, coconut Thai salmon, peas and carrots, flourless chocolate torte.
Bottom line: With a secret garden setting and service-oriented vibe, this upscale, casual bistro presents international fare plus a full bar with an award-winning wine list.
PHOTOS: Madelynne Grace
