MAKE IT A DATE NIGHT AT PENDOLINO!
A restaurant gem can hide in plain sight. Pendolino at Chastain Market on Roswell Road in Sandy Springs is just that: an upscale yet unpretentious eatery housed in a shopping center anchored by a Trader Joe’s. Chef-owner Kevin Maxey’s menu is inspired by Italian fare and also takes cues from local ingredients. The cocktail list underscores this duality with drink names like “Roman Holiday” and “Sonny Boy.” Pendolino expands Maxey’s culinary experiences that include working alongside chef Tom Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern and Craft in New York and serving as culinary vice president for Ford Fry’s Rocket Farm Restaurants in Atlanta.
Named for a Tuscan varietal of olive tree, Pendolino has retro decor that lends the airy space a relaxed vibe, where you feel equally welcome to linger over multiple courses or grab a quick snack. Glass chandeliers hang from high ceilings, olive green tiles accent cream walls, and linen curtains hug the lower half of windows. Classic rock dominates the soundtrack. Seating options include leather booths straddling a short wall, chairs circling marble-topped tables and stools at a wood bar with views of the wood burning oven. A private dining space seats up to 34 people, and a dog-friendly patio has banquette seating, umbrellas and couches. Wherever you sit, attentive servers offer menu suggestions, answer questions and keep water glasses filled.
Don’t miss the pork and veal meatballs, available as a starter with garlic bread or as an entree with spaghetti. Either way, the generous rounds of fork-tender meat present delicate, savory flavors paired with tangy-sweet tomato ragu. Each heavenly bite begs another, so I wouldn’t blame you for ordering both the starter and entree to indulge in the menu’s brightest star.
It would be a shame to miss the pizzettes, though, with their soft dough that’s charred the just-right amount. These tiny, wood-fired pizzas are packed with sophisticated flavors. The mushroom and fior di latte pizzette with garlic confit and salsa verde showcases earthy flavors and manages to seem light and decadent at the same time. The fennel sausage pizzette with red onions and cherry peppers pops with contrasting spicy and sweet notes. About the size of a salad plate and cut into four slices, the pizzettes work as an appetizer, shareable plate, small entree or companion to a salad or any combination of menu items.
Another noteworthy antipasti option is the crispy calamari fritti with sundried tomato. The dish boasts a satisfying crunch and compelling contrast of salty, herby and savory notes. It arrives with a schmear of lemon aioli, but if you also ordered the meatballs, try dipping the calamari into that tomato sauce and thank me later. Marinated olives with Pecorino cheese are salty nibbles with light citrus notes that play well with other food and drinks.
Garnished with an olive and citrus wedge, the house draft Negroni mixes Campari, vermouth and London dry gin. The alcohol forward sipper packs a bitter kick layered with sweet-tangy spice. Prefer something alcohol-free? Paisano is a lip-puckering blend of cherry, lime and ginger tonic.
Chicken scallopini parmigiano is a favorite entree for good reason. This version of the hearty comfort food envelopes juicy meat in a crispy coating that’s smothered with gooey cheese and sweet tomato sauce. The portion size is a platter full of wow. Add a side of al dente house-made pasta to round out the meal. If you can’t finish, take the rest to go because both the chicken and pasta reheat well.
Ricotta ravioli with butternut squash and sage delights with soft round pillows of sweet flavor drizzled with earthy-sweet sauce. Scattered pine nuts add light crunch. Most restaurants stuff butternut squash inside ravioli; this dish makes a strong case that the squash is even better when employed in the sauce.
Even a great date can have a couple awkward moments. Pendolino presents many hits, but we stumbled upon a couple of misses. Gulf shrimp alla vodka tasted like it was swimming in a martini. The shrimp was cooked to perfection, and the pasta had a welcome toothsome bite, but the sauce was too sharp. We gave the BBQ octopus, touted as a best seller, two tries, but the first was rubbery, and the second was overly charred. We sent that dish back both times, and it was removed from the bill without a fuss.
Save room for dessert. Olive oil cake is a sweeter finish than the name might suggest with snappy citrus notes. Tiramisu layers coffee, cocoa, and mascarpone. Portions are large enough to share, but I wouldn’t blame you for claiming a whole sweet dish.
Spend quality time with someone over dinner at Pendolino.
Pendolino
404.937.3057
pendolinoatl.com
@pendolinoatl
Prices: Antipasti, $9-19; pizzette, $17-20; small plates, salads & sides, $12-22; entrees, $22-39; dessert, $9-12; cocktails, $13-15; wine/glass, $13-19; beer, $7-8; spirit-free drinks, $7-12.
Recommended: Draft negroni, pork and veal meatballs, mushroom and fior di latte pizzette, sweet fennel sausage pizzette, ricotta ravioli with butternut squash, citrus olive oil cake.
Bottom line: With retro decor and a neighborly vibe, this contemporary casual restaurant presents Italian fare with a Southern twist alongside confident cocktails.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
