This Colorado ski town is just as appealing sans snow!
The rugged San Juan Mountains around Durango, Colorado, have long made it a popular destination whenever ski season rolls around. But I’m here to tell you there’s as much to see and do in the summer as in the winter.
For starters, the Animas River flows right through town, so you can whitewater raft and kayak in the middle of the city. It’s also excellent for trout fishing, particularly the 2-mile stretch designated as Gold Medal waters, an honor given to the top trout fishing spots in the state. One lovely June visit, my companions and I enjoyed the river by renting bikes and cruising the Animas River Trail that snakes alongside for 7 miles. We also rented a four-wheel UTV in nearby Bayfield, where our offroading adventure included a picnic on the side of Middle Mountain.
Equally exhilarating is a ride on the Inferno Mountain Coaster at Purgatory Resort, where riders control the speed of their cars down the track, whether it’s a slow scenic pace or the top speed of 25 mph. Purgatory Resort, or “Purg” as the locals call it, boasts more than 1,500 skiable acres, but come summer, it draws outdoor lovers for chairlift rides, zip lining, canoeing and paddleboarding on Twilight Lake, and mountain biking on its 15-plus trails.
Given the local geography, scenic hikes abound. A popular one is the trek to the upper mesa at Chimney Rock National Monument, where you’re afforded 360-degree views of the San Juan National Forest. You can also explore the remains of Pueblo dwellings dating as far back as 1084.
One of the ways we chose to end a long day of exploring was with burgers and beers by the fire pit at The Nugget Mountain Bar, an old miner’s cabin turned watering hole, followed by a restorative soak at the Durango Hot Springs that features 32 mineral-infused springs ranging from 99 to 112 degrees. Best of all, the springs are open late and there’s live music on select nights.
No trip to Durango is complete, though, without a ride aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Its steam- and diesel powered locomotives have been transporting passengers between Durango and the old mining town of Silverton since 1882. You can take either a half- or full-day excursion; just be sure to bring along your camera to capture the breathtaking alpine vistas along the way. Another longtime area activity we enjoyed was dinner and a show at the Bar D Chuckwagon, where we were serenaded by the melodic Bar D Wranglers as we savored a cowboy-style meal out under the stars.
Music is also part of the meal in the form of a ragtime pianist at the Diamond Belle Saloon, located in the historic Strater Hotel. This carefully preserved Victorian lodging makes a great home base for your stay, as does The Leland House, a family-owned boutique inn located in the city’s vibrant downtown. Recommended sights we didn’t quite get to on our visit included Honeyville, a third-generation beekeeping and honey-bottling facility with its own on-site distillery, and the James Ranch Grill, a farm-to-table eatery with livestock and produce that come straight from its own land. Well, there’s always next time.
DURANGO, COLORADO
durango.org
Note that many of the places and activities in the area have seasonal hours, so always check before you go.
