New direct flight unlocks delightful experiences!
I’ll admit that I’m a bit spoiled when it comes to travel. Sometimes getting where I want to go requires a layover along the way, so a direct flight is always a strong selling point. Such was the motivation for my recent solo trip to Copenhagen, since Scandinavian Airlines launched a new daily nonstop from Atlanta this summer.
I spent a few blissful days in the heart of the city, exploring the “must see” sights. I beelined to peep at the glittering crown jewels at the Renaissance- era Rosenborg Castle, perused Scandi-made home goods in dozens of design shops and wandered through the shaded paths among rolling hills in the 79-acre Frederiksberg Gardens. I took a “social sailing” small group boat tour with Hey Captain on the city’s waterways, snapped a requisite photo of Nyhavn’s colorful row houses and toured Carlsberg, the brewery founded in 1847. Denmark’s capital, with its friendly locals, easy to- navigate public transportation, cool weather and world-class food scene, was a revelation.
Still, the prospect of getting out of the hustle and bustle appealed, so I booked a “getaway within a getaway” north of town. The Coast Line train leaves four times an hour from Copenhagen’s Nørreport central station and takes 50 minutes to arrive at Elsinore, an 800-year-old coastal market town in northeastern Denmark. My prime aim was to see Kronborg Castle, the scene of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” The UNESCO World Heritage structure dates back to 1420 when it was built as an imposing fortress to protect the coast. From its place on a bluff, it overlooks The Sound, one of the world’s busiest waterways connecting the Kattegat strait and the Baltic Sea that separates Denmark from Sweden just 2.7 miles away. The castle’s setting is idyllic, and it was easy to see why famous actors Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, Christopher Plummer, Donald Sutherland, Richard Burton, Kenneth Branagh and Jude Law have participated in live performances of “Hamlet” here.
The town is equally charming and historic, with cobblestone streets and some still-inhabited homes dating back to the 1500s. An art culture thrives, and I treated myself to a ceramic butterfly sculpture by Katrine Wettstein at her studio shop, Nichen, to commemorate the trip.
That afternoon, I checked into Kurhotel Skodsborg Spa Hotel, just 19 miles south of Elsinore by train, in the village of Skodsborg, population 1,219. The now thoroughly modern building was built as a sanatorium in 1898. In addition to being a luxe, 96-room hotel, its wellness facilities are a major draw. I quickly dropped my bags in my sea-facing room and donned my swimsuit beneath a robe to explore. The 50,000-square-foot spa facilities include a massive indoor pool, steam rooms, saunas, outdoor cold plunges, icy showers and places to soak your feet in steaming water. It’s a perfect place to experience the sauna culture for which Scandinavia is famous. That evening, I tucked in for dinner at the on-site fine dining restaurant Brasserie Carl, where local, seasonal ingredients shine. Inspired by my surroundings, I got up early the next morning to take a quick, invigorating dip in the Baltic’s chilly waves before hopping on the train to the airport.
This trip reminded me of what I love about traveling: arriving in a destination without a host of preconceived notions and being present to see what looks interesting along the way. As it turns out, the unexpected discoveries are often the most memorable.
KURHOTEL SKODSBORG SPA HOTEL
skodsborg.dk
@kurhotelskodsborg
VISIT COPENHAGEN
visitcopenhagen.com
@visitcopenhagen
