The mysterious, exotic and fun sides of the central coast.
When telling others I was planning a trip to Vietnam, I had a litmus test for what kind of traveler they are. If someone said, “That’s on my bucket list!” I was talking with an adventurer. Alternatively, if the response was, “Why go there?” they prefer to play it safe. I, firmly in the former camp, was excited to experience the country that has inspired so many stories, tastes and, yes, a controversial war.
My husband, Will, and I were already in Hong Kong, so the flight to Danang (the capital of the demilitarized zone and headquarters of U.S. troops during the conflict) was shorter than two hours. Vietnam is long and thin, running vertically between the South China Sea on the east and Laos and Cambodia to the west, so you’re never far from mountains or water. We opted for the ultra-luxe InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort as our home base, planning to adventure by day, relax at night. The hotel is a stunner, set on the Son Tra Peninsula, nicknamed Monkey Mountain, for the colorful—and rare—red shanked douc monkeys that play and chatter in the lush vegetation adorning the steep mountain rising out of the sea. We settled into a gorgeous suite that jutted out from the mountain. It was outfitted with a pool-deep soaking tub, ornate carved fixtures reminiscent of Vietnamese temples and a wrap-around balcony overlooking the private beach and sparkling East Sea. Our first afternoon, we watched a dense mist settle over the jungle, adding to the air of mystery.
Just 45 minutes south lies Hoi An, a gorgeously preserved ancient port town and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Influences from its melting-pot history are everywhere: wooden Chinese buildings, technicolor temples, French colonial structures and the Japanese Covered Bridge, a must-get photo backdrop. Hoi An is known for three other things: gorgeous silk, terrific food and tailors who make lightning-fast work of creating garments from scratch. Our first stop was Yaly Couture, determined to get a custom suit for Will and a formal dress for me. We worked closely with our consultant, Fiona, who learned what we liked, took measurements and guided us through fabric selections. Over the next few days, we came back for fittings and what were once bolts of Italian cashmere (him, $450) and jet-black chiffon (me, $110) became stunning, custom garments we’ll treasure for years to come.
Wandering Hoi An’s streets, we stopped for bún thit nuróng, skewered steak, grilled over an open flame on the sidewalk, served with lettuce, basil and mint, and wrapped in see-through rice paper. We ate by the water, seated on tiny plastic stools, and the snack felt about as far from Buckhead as you can imagine. Another meal was happily spent at the exquisite Morning Glory where we ate beef and mustard greens in broth perfumed with ginger and barbecue chicken, and cooked in lime leaves.
Wanting to see more of the country, we hired a licensed local guide, Binh Faifoo. Our first stop was Mỹ Sơn (pronounced “me sun”), a collection of Champa ruins constructed between the fourth and 14th centuries. The more than 70 tombs and temples are set in a valley surrounded by mountains, though some were destroyed during the Vietnam War (bullet holes are visible in many of the structures). It was both staggeringly beautiful and a somber reminder of the turmoil that rocked this nation. Since we rarely saw other Americans, we asked how Vietnamese feel about our visiting. Binh replied, “We are grateful to our American friends and are happy that they would come see our country.” It was a simple statement, but one echoed time and time again in warm displays of genuine hospitality. Our next stop was the Marble Mountains, just a few miles from Danang and overlooking the iconic China Beach. The collection of five limestone and marble hills is named for the five elements. “Water mountain” is open for exploration, and we climbed to its summit and through its caves, taking in its intricate pagodas, Hindu sanctuaries and Buddha statues carved into the interior caves, dating back as far as the 17th century. The entire day, including a tip for our guide, only set us back $100, but the experience of seeing things that aren’t even on most people’s radar was priceless.
Did Vietnam feel like another world? Absolutely, but then again, that’s precisely what exploring is all about.
IF YOU GO…
InterContinental
Danang Sun Peninsula
danang.intercontinental.com
Morning Glory
msvy-tastevietnam.com
Yaly Couture
yalycouture.com
Travel Tips:
~You’ll need a visa to enter the country. Apply online at myvietnamvisa.com.
~The conversion rate from U.S. dollars to Vietnamese dong is high: $1 to 22,500 VND. Bring your calculator, and don’t worry when you take out millions from an ATM.
STORY: Jennifer Bradley Franklin
