DIG INTO MODERN MIDDLE EASTERN FARE AT DELBAR.
Delbar offers a lively taste of the Middle East at One Buckhead Plaza. It fills the space formerly occupied by Buckhead Life Restaurant Group’s Nava and Ford Fry’s King & Duke. To make the place its own, Delbar’s game plan is to go bold: The decor is lavish, the vibe boisterous, the service vigilant and the spice levels may jolt your taste buds. The strategy seems to be working, based on recent lunch and dinner crowds, the high numbers of fans on social media and its Michelin recommended status since 2023.
In Farsi, “delbar” means someone who captures the heart. It’s a fitting name for Chef Fares Kargar’s restaurant that’s conceived as “a love letter to Middle Eastern cuisine,” according to Delbar’s website. “We wanted to bring Persian food and Middle Eastern food in a way that wasn’t presented before.” Expect a blend of tradition and modernity.
If you’ve ever been to the Middle East, architectural elements set a distinctive, instantly recognizable scene with arches, glazed tiles and carved screens. Shades of beige and pink dominate the color scheme, while potted plants and textural works of art from fabrics to sculptures to light fixtures add pops of color. The overall effect is warm and timeless yet modern.
Once seated, you’re welcomed by a server holding a rimmed plate topped with what looks at first glance like marshmallows. Hot water is poured onto the mounds from a pitcher, and they bloom into warm towelettes to wipe hands clean.
Menus are packed with options. Faced with unfamiliar words? Staff members are eager to give guidance, even recent hires who may still be learning the subtleties of Middle Eastern cuisine. Odds are high that you’ll meet several staff members during your visit, convenient if you prefer multiple endorsements of items before ordering.
Cocktails taste spirit-forward and have fun names like Magic Carpet, Dubai Drift and Saudi Money. The Delbar spritz gives vodka a bitter kick with amaro. Long Live the Shah combines bourbon and rum with citrusy herby dimmi liqueur, almondy-tart falernum and peach juice. Zero proof drinks include the iced coconut chai tea with forward cinnamon and ginger notes. There are also several sharbat drinks—the Middle Eastern ancestor of sherbet—including one made with sour cherry and lime.
Multiple dishes appear on all menus, though each menu also has unique specialties like dinner meats, lunch sandwiches and brunch flatbreads. All meat is halal, and all plating is pretty.
At the start of the meal, a sabzi plate with herbs, salt-water soaked walnuts, radishes and feta cheese arrives with taftoun bread, all tasty gifts. Sprinkled with white and black sesame seeds, the thin bread is cooked in a tandoor oven and served warm. It’s so addictive, you’ll be happy to learn that refills are also complimentary.
The bread offsets bold dishes with generously layered flavors that zigzag around the mouth. Surprising combinations abound, such as a salad that smothers large cubes of watermelon with avocado emulsion, burnt honey, tarragon, mint, feta and harissa candied pistachios. The adana bite tops a rich lamb kebab with spicy/herby zhoug and spicy sesame tahina sauces for abundant heat. Falafel balls are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside with a unique herby punch.
Honey harissa chicken is a standout with tender, caramelized chicken coated with a sweet/spicy sauce with balanced peppery and sweet notes. Chinjeh, a featured meat at dinner that’s paired with eggs at brunch, features prime sirloin marinated in yogurt for a tender bite delicately flavored with saffron.
Among the several rice side dishes “Sabzi polo goes with everything!” enthused a server about one option. Solid advice: Impressively fluffy with a crusty top layer, the basmati is speckled with herbs and easy to enjoy.
The koobideh sandwich at lunch packs housemade turmeric barbari bread (pita’s thicker cousin) with blended lamb and beef, labneh (yogurt cheese), pickles, butter braised tomato and tangy sumac. The joojeh sandwich stuffs citrusy saffron chicken breast into the bread with pickled relish, mayo and tomato. Salad or fries are offered alongside sandwiches; go for the thick fries that are crisped to perfection and sprinkled with a tangy spice blend.
Desserts include pistachio lava cake, ginger date cake and baklava with orange cinnamon syrup—all with legions of online fans. The cardamom gelato sprinkled with rose petals offers a soothing finish to a zesty feast. A bazaar for the senses, a meal at Delbar is unforgettable.
Delbar – Buckhead
404.738.9302
delbaratl.com/location-buckhead
@delbaratl
Prices: Dinner: small bites, $7-$28; spreads, $7-$15; greens & grains, $8-$23; meats, $20-$57; wagyu strip, $99; condiments, $3-$5; desserts, $8-$13. Lunch sandwiches: $18-$21. Brunch bakery: $9-$24. Beverages: cocktails, $16-$17; sharbats and zero-proof, $3-$8; caffeinated drinks, $3-$5; wines, $16-$30/glass or $53-$500/bottle; spirits, $11-$200.
Recommended: Iced coconut chai tea, honey harissa chicken, koobideh sandwich, joojeh sandwich, adana bite and sabzi polo.
Bottom line: A vibrant ambiance, textural art, bustling servers and a lush patio garden set the stage for spicy dishes and strong cocktails.
PHOTOS: Erik Meadows
