Canouan Island in the Grenadines is a hidden gem!
It was the best of times, it was… Actually, that’s it. My first visit to Canouan was the best of times.
With its small size, pristine beaches, variety of activities, unspoiled nature and warm hospitality, discovering this 3-squaremile island in the Grenadines felt like a treasure hunt. Always up for an adventure, my husband and I decided to take a leap of faith to explore it, despite being able to research very little online.
Our first stop was Soho Beach House, the brand’s first Caribbean property, a five-minute drive from the smallest international airport I’ve ever seen. The 40-room hotel features low-key, colonial-chic rooms, all with ocean views. Ours came outfitted with a king-size four-poster draped with mosquito netting, a spacious porch and a sitting room adorned with weighty coffee table books and a bar stocked with local spirits, compostable espresso pods from Grind and freshly baked cookies.
For the first part of the trip, relaxation was the name of the game. Will and I were the only ones on the expansive beach with its crystal-clear water and generous umbrellas. We spent time with the hotel’s gregarious sous chef who prepared tuna ceviche in front of us at the beach bar, and later, an omakase dinner with courses ranging from sushi to steak cooked on a Japanese binchotan charcoal grill at the on-site restaurant. I indulged with a massage at the Cowshed Spa where a therapist kneaded out travel-induced knots and slathered on Soho House’s signature scented oils. From the end of the jetty, feet dangling over crystalline water, we watched as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in an array of pastel shades.
Later, we took a tour of Canouan Estates and learned more about the history of the island’s development. In the 1990s, an Italian billionaire wanted to build on Canouan’s more famous island neighbor to the north, Mustique, which gained notoriety for its popularity with Great Britain’s royal family and celebrity homeowners including Ralph Lauren and Mick Jagger. His plans were denied by local authorities, so he set his sights on Canouan, adding a golf course, villas and a luxury hotel.
He sold his interests to yet another Italian billionaire, Andrea Pignataro, who now stewards the land and owns the Estates and the two hotels. This history helped the island earn the reputation of a place where “billionaires go to escape millionaires.” For our last two nights, we checked into the island’s other hotel, Mandarin Oriental. It offers a completely different style of luxury. Our nearly 1,000-square-foot, one-bedroom suite featured a marble bathroom, a wide veranda and came with a round-the-clock butler, reachable via text message.
While we made full use of the hotel’s multiple beaches and huge infinity pool, we also wanted a bit of adventure. To that end, Keyon, a Grenadines native and former British military trainer, took us on a hike to the summit of Mount Royal, the island’s highest point at nearly 900 feet above sea level. From the top, we could spot a constellation of neighboring islands, including the Tobago Cayes, famously a filming location for the Pirates of the Caribbean. Though challenging and steep at times, the view made the trek worthwhile.
It’s impossible to spend any time on Canouan without seeing tortoises everywhere. In fact, the population of red-footed tortoises far outnumbers the 2,000 residents who call the island home. To protect the babies, both hotels have “nurseries” on site where guests can feed the adorable little ones mulberry leaves and hibiscus flowers. Drive along the golf course just before sunset and you’re likely to see hundreds of adult tortoises out for an evening meal, a sight that adds to the otherworldly feel of this special place.
Canouan being under-the-radar is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the island and its two hotels would be happy with more guests flocking to it. Conversely, part of its charm is that it feels like a completely new discovery. Time will tell what the future holds for the diminutive island, but in the meantime, those lucky enough to book a trip are practically guaranteed to enjoy a magical, off-the-tourist-path experience.
CANOUAN ESTATES
canouanestateresortandvillas.com
MANDARIN ORIENTAL CANOUAN
mandarinoriental.com/en/canouan/caribbean
SOHO BEACH HOUSE CANOUAN
sohohouse.com/en-us/houses/soho-beach-house-canouan
Up, Up & Away
From Barbados’ international airport, Canouan visitors can take a SVG Air (flysvgair.com) shared charter flight that will stop on multiple small islands. Alternatively, this winter Delta Air Lines will launch a nonstop flight from Atlanta to St. Vincent, the largest island in the Grenadines. From there, take a flight or a ferry to Canouan.
