CARMEL IS A FLAVORFUL GETAWAY FROM THE EVERYDAY!
If I don’t have a trip to the Mediterranean planned or a Mexican beach getaway on the calendar, I find myself daydreaming about ultra-fresh seafood, meat cooked over a wood-burning fire and fresh-squeezed cocktails to be sipped while watching ethereal curtains swaying in the sea breeze. Fortunately, this summer I rediscovered Carmel, a place where I can get my coastal flavors fix closer to home.
The eatery in Buckhead Village was designed by Atlanta-based Smith Hanes Studio. It features a warm, neutral palette; lime plaster walls; a U-shaped bar covered in rattan; and more than 20 overhead fixtures that evoke wide, floppy sun hats. The environs allow you to imagine yourself in Portugal’s Algarve, steps from the sand in Tulum or listening to the waves in Mallorca. The flavors match that breezy, unfussy vibe, albeit with an elegant, upscale twist.
Over the course of two visits, I worked my way through much of the eatery’s dinner menu, each bite or sip taking me on a flavor vacation. You can’t go wrong with a cocktail (or two) from the creative menu. The Negroni Sour adds a bit of sweetness and sour to a classic Negroni’s signature bitterness, while the Acapulco Way is a riff on a margarita, combining tequila, mezcal and sotol, a -known Mexican spirit that offers herbaceous and pleasantly grassy notes. Either makes a refreshing way to start a meal.
The menu’s starters are divided into “raw and crudo” and “first wave” sections. Among the former, guests may choose from a grand seafood tower with all manner of seafood, including oysters, scallops, a chilled lobster tail and poached shrimp. I chose the hamachi crudo and was impressed by the fish’s freshness and the delicate accompaniments of passion fruit and smoky, just-spicyenough morita chili.
Among the first waves, the light-as-air milk buns melt in your mouth, made even better with whipped togarashi butter. The caviar fries are exactly what they sound like: a plate piled as high as possible with thin, piping hot French fries topped with crème fraiche, béarnaise sauce and a generous portion of briny caviar. It’s both decadent and shareable, even for a large group. The octopus comes charred and tender, surrounded by modestly spicy capperino peppers, crispy potatoes and nutty romesco sauce, making a hearty beginning to the meal.
The seafood at Carmel shines. My husband’s order of whole lobster came out still steaming from the grill, all pink and perfectly tender, adorned with grilled lemon, herbs and buttery brioche crumbs. It was fuss-free, with no cracking required. On another visit, my friend ordered diver scallops, served with verdant spring peas, fragrant leeks and decadent brown butter. They managed to walk the line between delicate and satisfying.
It might come as a surprise, but for me, the shining star of the entrees was the humble chicken. Beautiful in its simplicity and bold flavors, the hearth-roasted bird is served with sunchokes, toothsome shiitake mushrooms and bright, tangy chimichurri. It was so fall-apart tender that I hardly needed a knife.
There are some less-stellar moments. For example, I once ordered the filet mignon with housemade steak sauce. While the flavor was great, with tender, perfectly medium-rare steak and spicy-tangy sauce, the presentation was sort of a mess: a piece of meat covered in brown sauce. It’s often noted that we eat first with our eyes, and this dish was more of an eyesore.
Dear reader, save room for dessert and plan to order the seared milk cake. It comes topped with juicy preserved strawberries, creamy whipped mascarpone and crumbly streusel. While the fruit may change according to what’s freshest and in season, it’s hard to imagine this not being a winner. It’s both light and large enough to share for a sweet end to a meal.
In my experience, the service at Carmel can vary according to who’s taking the reins. During my first visit, the service was pleasant but not particularly engaged. On my second trip, a friend and I had the good fortune to be seated with Brian, who was a delight. He made suggestions informed by his favorites and our preferences, paced the meal perfectly and anticipated our needs before we could realize we wanted anything more. He elevated an already good meal into something great.
Regardless of what’s coming up on my travel calendar, when I need a dose of vitamin sea, Carmel is a nearby place to get a fix.
Carmel
470.355.7245
carmelatl.com
@carmelatl
Prices: raw: $18-$165; first wave: $8-$26; mains: $36-$175; sides: $12-$14; desserts: $10-$14.
Recommended: Hamachi crudo, milk bun, caviar fries, whole lobster, hearth-roasted chicken, diver scallops, seared milk cake.
Bottom line: Inspired by some of the world’s best coastal culinary regions, the menu at Carmel leans into ultra-fresh seafood and wood-fired dishes. Creative cocktails, a smart wine list and thoughtful service round out the experience.
PHOTOS: Madelynne Grace
