{"id":8918,"date":"2016-06-30T11:00:15","date_gmt":"2016-06-30T15:00:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/simplybuckhead.com\/?p=8918"},"modified":"2016-06-28T09:29:50","modified_gmt":"2016-06-28T13:29:50","slug":"dont-mess-houstons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/simplybuckhead.com\/dont-mess-houstons\/","title":{"rendered":"DON\u2019T MESS WITH HOUSTON\u2019S"},"content":{"rendered":"

It may be a chain, but consistency never wavers.<\/p>\n

\"Thai<\/a>
Thai steak and noodle salad is a perfect marriage of sweet and salty, and a brilliant dish for summer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Did you know that one of America\u2019s best-loved restaurants has been quietly minding its business in Atlanta since 1978?<\/p>\n

Named for a dynamic city in the founders\u2019 home state of Texas, part of a national chain that now includes nearly 50 restaurants in 15 states, home of the Famous French Dip sandwich and the legendary spinach-and-artichoke spread, beloved by grandmothers who clutch pearls and celebrity chefs who covet James Beard medals: It\u2019s Houston\u2019s we speak of.<\/p>\n

\"At<\/a>
At Houston\u2019s, even a simple pre-meal nosh like rosemary focaccia is delicious and beautifully presented.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sure, Houston\u2019s probably won\u2019t make the list of any highfalutin, big-city restaurant critic. Most assuredly, it\u2019s not where you go for fancy foams, smoking cocktails, powdered this or deconstructed that. And yet Houston\u2019s\u2014part of the Beverly Hills-based Hillstone Restaurant Group\u2014has earned a devoted following, thanks to its consistently good, all-American food; its commitment to customer comforts; and its flagrant disregard for culinary razzle-dazzle.<\/p>\n

I enjoyed visiting Atlanta\u2019s first Houston\u2019s (the second restaurant in the entire chain) on Lenox Road back in the \u201980s, when dining options in the city were scattered, and spinach salad with honey-mustard dressing was the latest thing. (Houston\u2019s West Paces branch appeared on Northside Parkway in 1982, followed by Peachtree Road in 1988.) A decade or so later, on a visit to Miami, I was puzzled to hear that the new Houston\u2019s was the \u201cin\u201d spot. \u201cReally?\u201d I thought. \u201cSo \u201980s.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The Club Salad, Houston\u2019s take on a Cobb, is decked out with crispy chicken, smoky bacon and chopped egg.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Then I forked into an exceptionally crisp, luxuriously dressed Cobb salad, admired the handsome room and the well-dressed crowd and wondered why I didn\u2019t eat at Houston\u2019s more often. But let\u2019s face it: Atlanta is the kind of town that has exciting new restaurants opening left and right, and though I stopped by Houston\u2019s on Peachtree occasionally, I wasn\u2019t exactly addicted. But when a couple of Buckhead dwelling cronies told me recently that it\u2019s their top neighborhood choice, I decided to give it a whirl.<\/p>\n

Smart decision.<\/p>\n

Sitting in the farthest corner booth of the clubby, Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired room, I ordered a springy Jackrabbit cocktail (tequila, Campari, fresh grapefruit and mint) and scooped a corn chip into the gooey spinach and artichoke dip, possibly the most genius recipe to emerge from the \u201980s. Waiter, bring me a bib. (Oh, wait. Every Houston\u2019s napkin has a buttonhole in one corner: It\u2019s the businessman\u2019s best friend, saver of thousands of white shirts and silk ties.) If that luscious dip makes you feel the earth move, no worries: The table won\u2019t budge. That\u2019s because every table in the Houston\u2019s kingdom is bolted to the floor to avoid the pesky bobbling-table sensation that\u2019s sunk many a promising dinner. By my second visit, when the server asked if she could replace my martini glass with a newly-chilled vessel, I understood how the Houston\u2019s mystique has oozed into the national psyche.<\/p>\n

\"At<\/a>
At Houston\u2019s, your vodka martini with blue-cheese olives will never reach room temperature, because a server is always standing by with a freshly chilled glass.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My Ketel One martini (dry, straight up, with blue-cheese-stuffed olives) was the perfect pick-me-up on a swelteringly hot day. I nibbled the focaccia bread appetizer (which comes with almonds, a big dab of butter and ginormous marinated olives scattered with fennel slices and thyme twigs); struck up a conversation with my server (a nice kid from Virginia who is studying for her nursing exam); and moved on to my entr\u00e9e. That would be the Thai steak and noodle salad, a sweet-salty m\u00e9lange of tender filet, avocado, mango, tomatoes, fragrant herbs and crunchy peanuts. For those who have the willpower to resist the famous French dip (paper-thin slivers of prime rib on a housemade roll with a ramekin of au jus for dipping) and the classic cheeseburger, Houston\u2019s makes exceptional salads.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The famous French Dip may look rather ordinary, but it\u2019s a favorite of some of America\u2019s top chefs, like Momofuku\u2019s David Chang.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sure, maybe some things are a little too sweet (the otherwise perfectly executed Hawaiian rib-eye, marinated with soy, ginger and pineapple). Or they may need a bit of salt (the otherwise dreamy loaded baked potato that comes with the steak). But other dishes are downright marvels. Consider the rotisserie chicken, with its crispy, herb-encrusted skin. I love the way the bird soaks up the juices of the bright, perky tabbouleh that comes on the side. It\u2019s a memorable marriage, at once warm and comforting, cool and tingly.<\/p>\n

\"Paired<\/a>
Paired with cool, herb-flecked tabbouleh, Houston\u2019s rotisserie chicken hits all the right notes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When it comes to desserts, Houston\u2019s sticks with the classics: hot-fudge sundaes, warm apple-walnut cobblers, key-lime pies. I\u2019ve had rich brownies, but the five-nut version served here is a mighty powerful dose of chocolate. Fasten your napkin! You\u2019re in for sloppy ride of sinful chocolate and melting vanilla.<\/p>\n

As I began to research this review, my dining companion sent me a link to Bon Appetit\u2019s recent ode to the Hillstone family of restaurants by Atlanta homeboy Andrew Knowlton. Seems Momofuku chef David Chang is a big fan of the French dip. Shake Shack\u2019s Danny Meyer loves the crispy chicken sandwich. Well, count me in, guys. It\u2019s taken a minute, but I\u2019m happy to be back on the Houston\u2019s horse.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The five-nut brownie is a decadent overload of chocolate, served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

HOUSTON\u2019S<\/strong>
\n2166 Peachtree Road N.W. 30309
\n404.351.2442
\nhillstone.com\/houstons<\/a><\/p>\n

Prices: Starters: $4-$15. Salads: $13-$20. Burgers and sandwiches: $18-$20. Entrees: $25-$45.<\/p>\n

Recommended: Jackrabbit cocktail. Spinach and artichoke dip. Rotisserie chicken with tabbouleh. Thai beef and noodle salad. Warm five-nut brownie.<\/p>\n

Bottom line: A chain, yes, but also a classic.<\/p>\n

STORY: Wendell Brock
\nPHOTOS: Sara Hanna<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It may be a chain, but consistency never wavers. Did you know that one of America\u2019s best-loved restaurants has been quietly minding its business in Atlanta since 1978? 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